Projects, Projects and Projects

I think most miniature gamers at one time or another get into the same dilemma that I find myself in now: so many miniatures, so little time. The amount and variety of good, quality miniatures and periods available literally stagger the mind (at least for this gamer, that is!). It's come a long way since the early 1970's with my plastic 20mm Airfix figures.

I usually have multiple gaming projects going on concurrently; some take longer than others. In early 2001 I was trying the Ancients Rules De Bellis Multitudinis (DBM) I knocked out a Late Roman Army in 15mm in about 2 months.

Love that Late Roman Period!

I've been working on my 28mm Napoleonics for about 5 or 6 years (sigh). Yep, some projects take longer than others.

So why did I finish the 15mm Late Roman army so quickly? Motivation. I was invited to play in a DBM tournament and I needed an army. Nothing like motivation to get that paint brush painting. It also helps if the period or army you want to game is interesting to you (why would you paint it otherwise?). Another factor that helps is if you have a group to regularly game with. Unfortunately, right now where I currently live (other than my 5 Honorable sons) most of the historical gamers I have found live about an hour away. When you have to paint both sides in a battle, it does take longer. As I mentioned, I'm feel like I'm treading water - time to finish a project. So I'm systematically doing a mental inventory of what I have done, what periods I like, what I have and where I want to go.

Projects that are kinda sorta done. Shiny new units and additions are always welcome!

1. The Late Roman Period in 28mm. I'm probably going to add a few Huns here and there and maybe one or two more infantry guys to the units. Yeah, and the cavalry needs to be beefed up . . .

Like I said, you can never have enough barbarians.

2. The War of Spanish Succession in 15mm. Essentially done here with about 50 infantry regiments, 25 cavalry, etc. What needs to be finished is the artillery, which I have, and the odd unit that catches my eye.

Linear Warfare in the Grand Style.

3. The Afrika Korps in 15mm. I'm pretty sure I'm done with this army and happy with the way it turned out.

Gaming in the Desert.

4. German WWII army for the European Theater: 1942 - 1945. Another army that is basically done. I may add the odd vehicle, tank or command stand.





5. Warmaster Fantasy Army in 10mm. Now here's a good debate - is it done or not? I have a gazillion Elves, Dwarves, Ogres, Trolls and a total of 2 (count them) 2 "human" units. Might have to add some forces for the human race, but currently I don't have any. By the way, Warmaster is one of the most playable and innovative rule sets out there and has spawned a historical Warmaster Ancients, many variants for other periods and is the basis for the new Blackpowder rules.

Guess I need to take some pictures of my Warmaster Figures.

6. The American Civil War in 15mm. I use the rules Fire and Fury and recommend to any one starting out that this is a good period to start with. Most everyone knows something about the Civil War and most of the "basic" units are fairly easy to paint.






Anyway, I've come to a point where I want to focus on one or another project and I need to decide which one:

1. The Napoleonic Peninsular Project for Volley and Bayonet. My longest, longest long range project. Those Airfix 20mm plastic Napoleonic miniatures are what got me to fight out battles on the tabletop. I've been working on both the French Army (plus allies) and an Anglo-Portuguese army in 28mm ever since I sold my 15mm collection around 8 years ago.

Mon Dieu!!! Where is the rest of the Grande Armee?

2. The Indian Mutiny in 28mm. Scratch what I said above; this is really my longest, longest long-range project. I started doing the Indian Mutiny in 28mm in late 1999. Again, I've been doing both sides. I love this period!

Old Glory Miniatures Highlander officer.

This is one of my favorites from Wargames Foundry Miniatures.

Royal Artillery by Old Glory Miniatures.

3. German WWII Paratroopers in 15mm. I have everything I need for this army as other German forces that I have can support them. Just need to paint a lot of paratroopers.



4. American WW II Paratroopers in 15mm. I've done a few test figures, have some forces but need to get painting.

5. English Civil War in 28mm. Another one of my most favorite periods. I use to have a large collection of 15mm which I sold.


Now I want to do the English Civil War in 28mm. With Warlord Games extensive range of hard plastic and metal miniatures, I'm itching to get back into it. I've purchased 4 boxes of their hard mutlti-part hard plastic and I have done "part" of one unit. In addition, I picked up some extra Wargames Foundry command on eBay.

Wargames Foundry Officer.

Hard Plastic Pikes from Warlord Games.

Decisions, decisions! Which should I finish? Time to do some thinking this weekend.

Perry French Dragoons - WIP #6

Okay, now the 25th Regiment of Dragoons is really finished. For the 3" x 3" bases, I put thinned down white glue on the top and then just dip in a tub of flocking. I use to put in more detail, but with the size of the Volley and Bayonet bases, I just got plain lazy and decided just to use flocking. After the glue dries it's time for the protective coating.

For the first coat, I use Krylon's Workable Fixatif. Fixatif is use to protect pencil, pastel and chalk drawings and does a great job for the initial coat. Of course, make sure you use a well ventilated area! It'll dry in 15 to 20 minutes but you should not handle the figures for another hour. It will leave a glossy, shiny coat so if that's the effect you want, you're done. I prefer a flat look so a then apply a coat of Krylon's Crystal Clear Flat for metal, wood and wicker. This will give it a flat look and dries in 10 minutes.

I still have 9 mounted figures to do (it took a long time to do 3!; nothing like work and real life to get in the way of your hobby). I haven't decided if I'm going to do another regiment of dragoons next or knock out some 9lbrs for the Royal Artillery.

Perry French Dragoons - WIP #5

Yeah - finished the 25th Dragoons. Haven't finished the base yet but I am extremely pleased with the way they turned out. Nothing like some great quality figures to bring out a good paint job!

One thing I like about the hard plastics is the ability to paint some of the more awkward parts, like scabbards and other accessories, on the sprues before adding them. It definitely makes the painting a lot easier. Here I have painted the dragoon's muskets and scabbards on the sprues.


Some other views of the 25th Dragoons; almost ready to start play testing Napoleonic scenarios for Volley and Bayonet.

Perry French Dragoons - WIP #4

Almost done with the 25th Dragoons. Forgot to mention how I am painting them and as a reminder I primarily use Games Workshop paints:

1. Primed black on the sprues.

2. Skin: Dark Flesh, then Dwarf flesh with a highlight of Elf Flesh.

3. Jackets: Dark Angels Green highlighted with Snot Green (yeah, I love the names too). Facing color is Blazing Orange and the buttons are White.

4. Coveralls: Adeptus Battlegray highlighted with Codex Gray.

5. Helmets: Dry brush metal with Shining Gold. Crest is Black lightly dry brushed with Codex Gray. Fur is Scorched Brown.

6. Gloves: Bestial Brown then wet brushed with Bone White and then White.

Perry French Dragoons - WIP #3

I'm slowly but surely making progress on my Perry French Dragoons. I've decided that the first unit will be the 25th Dragoons and their orange facings. I've made the most progress on the musician; once it is done I'll be able to finish up the rank and file figures quickly.




For years I have been adding labels to the bases to identify the units I use for Volley and Bayonet. I just type the unit name, cut it out and use some white glue to put it on the unit bases. The challenge is putting the label on while holding the base that has figures and terrain on it and, etc, . . . this week it suddenly dawned on me. Put the label on before you mount the figures on the base. What a blinding flash of the obvious! So below is the first one . . .

Perry French Dragoons - WIP

Alright! Time to break into the new box of Perry Brothers Miniatures' French Napoleonic Dragoons 1812-1815. Perfect timing for my French Army of the Napoleonic Peninsular Campaign. The box (all for a fantastic price of $29.99 from TheWarStore.com) comes with 13 mounted dragoons, 8 dismounted dragoons, 3 French infantry casualties, 3 British infantry casualties and various packs, muskets and shakos (hats) to add flavor or to use as markers on the Napoleonic battle field. The mounted figures come with a variety of options: officer with our without eagle, Elite company bearskins or helmets, trumpeters, numerous arm options, etc. Have I mentioned the new trend in providing hard plastic miniatures for historical wargamers? I love it - the right price and the modeling and conversion of figures have never been better.

Here is what the sprues look like:

To the left is the officer sprue which allows you to have a company grade officer or a Eagle bearer. To the left is the dismounted dragoon sprue; you get 4 of them.

This is the mounted dragoon sprue, 4 also included. Note the 4 center company helmets, 2 elite company helmets and the 2 elite company bearskin hats.

Close up of the dismounted dragoons.

Here is the sprue for the horses; this also has the casualties and battlefield debris. There are also 4 of these included.

The box also comes with plenty of hard plastic bases, a painting guide for all of the dragoon regiments and two 1812 version flags for the 2nd and 7th Dragoons.

What to start on? Many times I will add units just to add some color to the battlefield. I've been building my armies for the rule set Volley and Bayonet which is designed for grand tactical play. Each 3" x 3" stand in the Napoleonic period represents a brigade; I usually mount 3 cavalry figures per stand. With the box set, this will give me 4 Brigades which can usually be deployed as two divisions. The dragoon regiments had various facing colors depending on which number (and which year!) they were. Virtually ever dragoon regiment served in the Peninsular campaign so I am going to do a unit with orange facings, yellow facings, pink facings and red facings. The unit with the red facings will get brown coats, made with local fabric in Spain.

The first three figures will belong to a unit with orange facings. I have also decided to include a trumpeter and I have given the trumpeter one of the elite helmets to have him stand out more with the plume.



The first 3 horses. One thing I like is that the cartridge box for the mounted dragoon is already on the horse. When the figure is placed in the saddle, the cartridge box looks like it is on the dragoon's belt - and it makes it easier to paint!

As I mentioned earlier there are 13 mounted figures; what should I do with the extra figure? Time to take the officer figure and convert him into a General officer to lead the Dragoon division. I took the officer upper body piece and carefully trimmed off the epaulette that designates the figure as a company officer. By adding an arm for one of the elite company figures, I now have given the figure two epaulettes designating him as a senior officer. Now to add some putty to give a general officer sash. Gotta love the ease of converting hard plastic figures.


Putty is still wet and needs to be shaped a bit.


With a little paint and a start on the officer's horse, he is starting to take shape.



As a General a' Division, he will have a gold sash with red weaved into the sash.